How to make the perfect fan
Russian volume lashes requires perfect hand made fans, which I am obsessed with perfecting all the time, and also push my students to do so too!
So in this top tip I am going to discuss with you what a perfect fan is, some of the tips and tricks I have learnt over the years to help assist you in creating a perfect fan. Things like getting your fan symmetrical, no crossed or T bar bases, getting that nice pointy base and how to do this. Here is a list of the topics I will cover:
• Using The correct Volume Tweezers
• Creating a pointy base
• Removing the fan from the strip
• Correct adhesive dipping
• How to prevent the Fan from closing
Tweezers- So using the correct tweezers is SO important. This means a good quality tweezer. Make sure you buy tweezers that have been hand tested by the supplier so you know the quality is amazing. The grip has to be perfect in order for you to pick up lashes. You will also need to find the 'bite' on your tweezers, this is the point on your tweezers where the fan can be made perfectly, this will be different on every single paid of tweezers! I find that smaller tweezers the 'bite' is usually further back around 3mm in from the tip, where as on longer, more pointed tip tweezers the 'bite' is usually closer to the tip about 1mm in. Not one pair of tweezers will be suitable for everyone , but I would say get used to your tweezers and practice with them for a good 1- 2 weeks to get used to that style rather than investing in lots of different pairs.
Creating Pointy bases-Its really important when making a fan the base is really pointy, this helps the fan bond to the natural lash better, and its able to for the locking system around the natural lash 'the wrap' which you want for good retention. Pointy bases will also look much neater when applied and not clump together with other lashes. So, how to create that point base...the key is when making the fan to keep the movement nice and slow and controlled, depending on what technique you use to make the fan this will vary.
Pulling the lashes off the strip- This sounds so simple but there is definitely a 'nack' to this...so if you pull the lashes up to quick you will most definitely lose the fan, but if you pull them up to slow the lash tends to split, so getting the timing right on this really does matter, after a few times of doing this you will find the perfect speed, not too fast and not too slow. Also the direction of how you pull the lashes off the strip, so rather than towards yourself which most people tend to do at first, its more of and upwards movement. When you are pulling lashes off the strip the grip on your tweezers also needs to remain very tight so you do not release the fan...have a little practise at this and you will see!
Correct adhesive dipping- Soooo important!! so its totally different to classic lashes, where we swipe the lash in and out of the adhesive, if we was to do that with a fan it would close, so instead we have to tap the fan onto the adhesive, it should also be a very minimal amount of adhesive, you should not be able to see it on the bottom of the fan. You only want to very end of the base of the fan to go in as if you dip it too hight the fan will stick to your tweezers or the fan will close.
How to prevent the fan from closing- This happens quite a lot at first, usually when as above you are using to much adhesive or placing the fan in the adhesive wrong, you aren't pulling the fan off the strip correctly, or it splits as your placing it onto the natural lash. So as we have covered above if you mater those techniques it will help prevent the fan from closing, if your fan is splitting as you are placing it onto the natural lash you have either not used enough adhesive, or you haven't aligned the lashes up properly, you should try to place the natural lash in the centre of the fan and hold for a second and release, I like to place from underneath. Your pressure should also be very light and minimal as the adhesive should act like a magnet and grab the natural lash without you having to do much, if you apply to much pressure you will knock the fan.
Theres so much to think about..but once you have mastered all these little tips you will start to make the perfect fans without even having to think about it.
Let us know what you think, did this help?
Who would like a How to make a fan video demonstration?